Cracked Ice North Ridge

After a recovery day from the choss bender up Mt. Diamond, Taylor recommended the Cracked Ice North Ridge (5.6 III, Alaska Grade 2, AD) as a reasonable solo and Thompson Pass alpine climbing classic.  It did not disappoint.  From the beautiful trailhead cairn on the roadside, up through the epitome of a Chugach climber’s trail, the rough trail-less alpine, beautiful glacier, and splitter greywacke; it’s the quintessential non-snow season Thompson Pass adventure.

Around an hour from the road you’ll get views like this:

Higher up the views get even better:

At the base of the glacier the north ridge of Cracked Ice comes into view:

The glacier travel starts out low angle, but steepens (crampons and ice tool necessary for summer-fall conditions) close to the base of the north ridge where easy fifth class climbing on good rock (for the Chugach) begins:

Off the ice and at the base of the steep greywacke:

Some exposed, easy-mid fifth class climbing along the cusp of the north ridge (before it drops to a saddle and the final 3rd class ascent to the summits begins):

Looking back at the north ridge from the summit:

View SE from the summit of the tarn-studded wonderland known by some as the “Enchanted Kingdom” and Peak 6513 (Rhinestone Cowgirl):

View NE from the summit back toward the Richardson Highway and Tsaina River valley:

Video of the day:

Gear:

  • Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX boots
  • Outdoor Research Voodoo pant
  • Outdoor Research Helium Hybrid jacket
  • Patagonia Alpine Houdini pants
  • Patagonia Capilene long underwear
  • Patagonia Capilene boxers
  • Patagonia R1 fleece hoody
  • Tech t-shirt
  • Black Diamond Hot Forge Hybrid hoody
  • Black Diamond Terminator gloves
  • Black Diamond Torque gloves
  • Black Diamond Vision harness
  • Black Diamond Venom ice axe
  • Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight
  • Black Diamond Stoppers
  • Black Diamond pitons
  • Black Diamond Oz alpine draws
  • Black Diamond Dynex runners
  • Black Diamond Nitron locking carabiners
  • Black Diamond Blitz 28 pack
  • Black Diamond Revolt headlamp
  • Edelrid Micro Jul belay device
  • Petzl RAD line and glacier kit
  • Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons
  • Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screws
  • Petzl Spatha knife
  • J-Snare v-thread tool
  • CAMP Speed helmet
  • Julbo photochromatic sunglasses
  • 6mm cordelette
  • InReach
  • Repair & emergency kit