Sapphire Traverse

After an oppressively rainy and cloudy August in Southcentral Alaska, September 2018 started with an amazing stretch of sunny weather provided by an “Omega Block” high pressure system.  Despite the forecast clear skies, Thompson Pass is notorious for ravaging outflow winds that accompany sunny days.  After much dirtbag hemming and hawing over whether or not the drive from Anchorage would be worth it in terms of gas money and carbon emissions (due to the potential for blustery winds making alpine climbing uncomfortable), I took my chances and headed there.

I’ve been meaning to get to Valdez for a mission with Wrangell/Eastern Chugach guru Taylor Brown for over a year.  Taylor keeps his third eye squeegeed crystal clear, and his mountain vision is remarkable.  He had a couple prize options for a vision quest venue in mind for the second weekend of September 2018.  While Thompson Pass is renowned as a big mountain skiing venue, it’s not known for its alpine climbing potential.  Nevertheless, Taylor has contributed a lot to the community by establishing and/or providing info on numerous quality routes in the area.  Check out his vision for Thompson Pass “splitter choss” on Mountain Project.

Since we were car camping in the vicinity of the Worthington Glacier, we decided to quest in that area.  The objective was a full traverse of Sapphire, with an ascent of its west ridge (a likely first, at least as an alpine rock climb, and the only ridge up Sapphire Taylor hadn’t yet climbed), via a very classy big glacier loop: 5.6 IV, Alaska Grade 3, D

Taylor on the Worthington Glacier near where we got on it just below 27 Mile Peak:

Taylor on the Worthington closer to Sapphire:

Taylor scrambling 4th and easy 5th class from the Worthington to the base of Sapphire’s west ridge:

Taylor on the lower crest of the west ridge:

Mat nearing the start of steeper 5th class terrain:

Mat nearing the belay for the first pitch (we roped up for four pitches up to ~5.6 with some extreme exposure):

Mat following Taylor’s lead on the first roped pitch:

Mat leading the second pitch:

We un-roped for some easier 5th class, leading to the gendarme that seems like the true summit, before roping back up for two more pitches along the upper ridge to the south ridge for descent:

Here are a few more photos on Taylor’s Instagram.

Gear:

  • Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX boots
  • Outdoor Research Ferrosi Crag pants
  • Outdoor Research Helium Hybrid jacket
  • Patagonia Alpine Houdini pants
  • Patagonia Capilene long underwear
  • Patagonia Capilene boxers
  • Patagonia R1 fleece hoody
  • Tech t-shirt
  • Black Diamond Hot Forge Hybrid hoody
  • Black Diamond Terminator gloves
  • Black Diamond Torque gloves
  • Black Diamond Vision harness
  • Black Diamond Cobra ice tools
  • Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight
  • Black Diamond Stoppers
  • Black Diamond pitons
  • Black Diamond Oz alpine draws
  • Black Diamond Dynex runners
  • Black Diamond Nitron locking carabiners
  • Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device
  • Black Diamond Blitz 28 pack
  • Black Diamond Revolt headlamp
  • Petzl RAD glacier kit
  • Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons
  • Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screws
  • Petzl Spatha knife
  • Beal Ice Line Rope
  • J-Snare v-thread tool
  • CAMP Speed helmet
  • Julbo photochromatic sunglasses
  • 6mm cordelette
  • InReach
  • Repair & emergency kit